Exploring the Upper Madawaska River in Madawaska, ON

Exploring the Upper Madawaska River in Madawaska, ON

Nestled just off Highway 60 in the charming community of Madawaska, Ontario is home to one of the area’s best-kept paddling secrets—the Upper Madawaska. The river can be accessed by a public boat launch behind the Madawaska Complex. This scenic spot marks the beginning of a peaceful, nature-immersed journey along the Upper Madawaska River, perfect for kayakers, canoers, and stand-up paddleboarders alike.

Hi, I’m Lana. Co-owner here at OVAP. I love to explore the Ottawa Valley (and beyond!) waterways—especially the rivers in the area that hold so much history. I enjoy sharing a little bit of that history in each blog, and it often revolves around the logging industry since it was such a driving force in our local economy back in the rivers’ heyday. I hope you enjoy reading about this history as much as I enjoy learning about it myself. If history isn’t your thing, feel free to skip ahead—we get to the paddling portion below.

A River with a Story to Tell — and the Town That Started It All

Madawaska, Ontario may be a small community today, but it’s steeped in a history as rich as the forests that surround it. Once a bustling stop on the J.R. Booth railway, it was home to busy train yards and a roundhouse (if you don't know what this is, I suggest checking out this link for more info. I love railways and trains, but I had to look up what a roundhouse was!), serving as a hub for the booming logging industry. Here, the mighty Madawaska River flowed into Bark Lake, carrying countless logs on their journey to the Ottawa River and beyond. The area was alive with the hum of saws, the whistle of locomotives, and the rhythm of an industry that shaped the Ottawa Valley.

Bark Lake itself played a starring role in this chapter of Canadian history. Created when the Madawaska River was dammed, it became a major sorting and storage ground for logs—a place where the bark used in logging gave the lake its name. This was the beating heart of the timber trade, and the riverbanks here have seen more than a century of lumbermen’s stories.

One such story still flows today at Murray Brothers Lumber, located downstream from our launch point. Starting in 1902 with Mick and Tom Murray, the company grew through the roaring ’20s, survived the Great Depression, and eventually moved its operations to Madawaska in 1951. From the old steam-powered sawmill on the river to the modern, global operation it is now, Murray Brothers has been a fixture of the region—weathering change, embracing sustainability, and helping keep the valley’s forestry heritage alive.

Now, back to paddling...


Getting There: A Secret Launch That's Worth the Hunt

The launch can be a little tricky to find on your first visit. As you turn off Highway 60 into the Madawaska Complex, look for a small laneway beside the baseball diamonds—follow it to the very end and you’ll discover a quiet gravel lot with ample parking, a well-maintained dock, and best of all: clean public washrooms inside the Complex. That’s a luxury worth celebrating in paddling circles! Click here for a Google Map pin of the launch point

Alternate Launch: There is also a canoe launch just off of highay 60 at the Madawaska Community Park. We haven't used this launch point ourselves, but I'm sure it's another great option!


Paddling North With Still Waters & Secret Ponds

Our journey began heading north from the launch, winding through a narrow section of the Madawaska past tall pines, a few cottages and homes and marshy creeks. 

After only 1.5kms, we came to a fork in the river and decided to continue straight rather than turning to the right. As it turned out, this led into a large secluded, marshy bay. This was a cool spot to explore with tons of lily pads, and downed trees. Out in the open part of the bay, the water was glassy, reflecting the tall evergreens and cotton clouds above. It was the perfect spot to float for a while. 

We paused here to drift and take in the silence. It’s rare to find such an untouched-feeling place so close to a main highway, and the peacefulness was soul-refreshing.

Back in the main channel, we explored another few kilometres, taking our time through marshy areas accessible only by paddlecraft. While we hoped to spot a moose (still no luck!), the valley’s hilly terrain and vibrant greens made the scenery one for the books!

As far as I know, you can continue paddling upstream on this part of the Mad River for many kilometres before hitting any sort of rapids. You'll meander through hilly landscapes and even the Upper Madawaska River Provincial Park. Like anywhere, the rapids can be rougher depending on the time of year, so it’s always smart to stay aware and remember they’re up there. The best part about heading upstream is that when you do reach rapids, you’ll be at the bottom of them, so they won’t surprise you with an unplanned ride! 😅

Lucky for us, the day we paddled through, the flat water was like glass with little to no wind at all as we paddled through the narrow sections of the river. 


Weather Warnings & Quick Tips

Partway through our paddle, the skies darkened and the wind picked up—ominous signs for any paddler. A quick check of the forecast confirmed lightning nearby, and that’s when we remembered: your paddle can act like a lightning rod. In case of lightning, the safest move is to get off the water and seek shelter on shore.

We scanned the shoreline and picked a route out of the water in case the storm got worse, but luckily for us, it passed by quickly. But let this be your friendly reminder: always check the weather and be prepared to pivot!


The Return & Rail Bridge Nostalgia

Heading back wasn’t easy—the wind and wide waterway created choppy waves that made every stroke count. But after some determined paddling, we returned to the launch, and passed under the historic Madawaska Rail Bridge. This nostalgic landmark brought back childhood memories of snowmobiling across it with my dad, adding a personal layer of magic to the day.

 


Next Time I Want to Head South to Moore Creek Falls

Unfortunately, we didn't have a ton of time for this adventure, but I have read that If you paddle downstream under the old railway bridge, you’ll find a small creek (Moore Creek) that leads to Moore Creek Falls—an impressive waterfall by southern Ontario standards! Even better, the falls are located on crown land, making them accessible only by paddle. It looks like the paddle from the bridge is only 3.5kms and I am kicking myself for not doing this paddle when we were there!


Local Food, Shopping & Acommodations

After a good paddle, you’ll want to refuel—and Madawaska’s surrounding region delivers on flavour and charm:

  • Spectacle Lake Lodge Lakeside Restaurant: Located just a short drive away, this upscale dining spot offers delicious food with beautiful views. I have fond memories of snowmobiling here as a kid—still a favourite stop!

  • Wilno Tavern Restaurant: For a hearty post-paddle meal, head to Wilno for authentic Polish fare like pierogies, cabbage rolls, and schnitzel. With over a century of history and regular live music events, it’s as much an experience as it is a meal.

  • Madawaska Coffee Co: Small batch roasted in the small town of Barry's Bay. Make a pit stop for top-quality coffee roasts, seasonal favourites, lattes, sandwiches and delectable baked goods!
  • Grumblin’ Granny’s in Barry’s Bay: Stop in here for quirky gifts, clothing, and a few laughs. It’s a fun detour that adds a touch of whimsy to your paddling road trip.

  • Ash Grove Inn: Whether you’re staying overnight or just grabbing a bite, this waterfront inn is a lovely spot to extend your time in the valley.


Final Thoughts

Whether you’re a local or just passing through the Upper Madawaska region, this paddle is a can’t-miss for anyone who loves nature, solitude, and a touch of adventure. The Madawaska launch offers easy access to a route that’s as beginner-friendly as it is rewarding for seasoned paddlers.

Just don’t forget to check the weather, bring your sense of curiosity, and maybe—just maybe—you’ll be the lucky one to spot that elusive moose finally!

Until next time, happy paddling and keep making memories on the water.

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