For those seeking a serene yet adventurous paddling experience packed with serene nature and unqiue history, Black Bay is an incredible hidden gem waiting to be explored. Here's a detailed account of our paddling trip through this picturesque and historic region.

Getting Started

Our adventure began with a scenic drive to Morris Island Conservation Area, where a paid parking lot provides convenient access to the launch point. The area is well-maintained, and while the launch spot is a bit rocky, it’s manageable for most paddlers. The launch is located just to the left of the parking lot, making it easy to unload and set up your kayaks.

We've paddled around in the conservation area before and it offers beautiful views and stunning nature. But todays adventure takes us across the Ottawa River over to Black Bay.

Setting Off

Once in the water, we were greeted by a tranquil island surrounded by a marshy hideaway. As you navigate towards the Ottawa River, be mindful of shallow waters and submerged rocks. The shoreline route offers a stunning view and leads you to the old train bridge, a perfect spot to play in the light rapids. However, note that the current here can be strong, making this route suitable for more experienced paddlers. For this trip, Scott and I used a Delta 12.10 and a Hurricane Tampico 130, respectively, ensuring we had the right equipment to handle the currents and rapids.

Dead Heads

As with any paddling adventure along the Ottawa River, be sure to keep an eye out for dead heads sticking out of the water. What is a dead head? 

The Ottawa River has a rich history tied closely to the logging industry, particularly during the 19th and early 20th centuries. This river was a major conduit for transporting timber from the vast forests of Ontario and Quebec to markets in Canada and beyond. Logs were floated down the river to sawmills during the spring thaw when the river's flow was at its peak.

Dead heads are remnants of these historical logging operations. Not all logs made it to their destination; some would sink due to being waterlogged or get stuck on the riverbed. Over time, these sunken logs might resurface partially, creating hazards known as dead heads. These are particularly common in rivers used historically for log driving because of the sheer volume of timber that once traveled these waterways.

Today, these logs not only pose a navigational risk but also serve as historical markers of the river's pivotal role in the regional timber industry. The Ottawa River has many such remnants lurking beneath its surface, reminders of a bygone era of robust logging and river transport.

Historical Highlights

As we paddled under the old train bridge, we couldn't help but marvel at its rich history and impressive engineering. The original bridge, completed in 1915, stretches 1,589 feet across the river and took an entire year to build. Constructed by the Northern Railway to supply goods to Bristol Mine and North Bay, the bridge and the surrounding area offer a fascinating glimpse into the past. Today, it holds the title of the longest snowmobile bridge in the world.

The bridge was decommissioned in 2014 when plans to turn it into a multi-use bridge for bikes and pedestrians fell through. However, it found new life in March 2021 as a snowmobile-only bridge. This revival was made possible after local snowmobile clubs secured over a quarter of a million dollars in federal and provincial government funding and contributed over $133,000 of their own to build the superstructure that stands today. 

The Rich History of the Ottawa River

This part of the Ottawa River is steeped in history. Before the Chats hydro dam was built in the late 1920s, the river dropped thirty-five feet in a series of chutes known in English as Cat Falls, but the French name, Chute des Chats, has a more poetic ring. These falls were a natural wonder, attracting sightseers who traveled up the river from Ottawa on paddle steamers. Once they reached the falls, an 8km horse-drawn railway would take them through dense forests to the section of the river upstream.

In 1932, the construction of a massive hydroelectric dam across the river submerged the falls, creating Lac des Chats and transforming the landscape. The land upstream was flooded, forming several small islands that now make up the Morris Island Conservation Area. This rich history adds a layer of depth to the already breathtaking scenery.

Crossing to Quebec

Our journey continued across the river to the Quebec side, where we hugged the north shoreline and explored a small bay dotted with islands en route to Black Bay. The current in the middle of the Ottawa was stronger, but leaving the river made paddling easier. Along the way, we spotted a majestic bald eagle, which added a magical touch to our adventure.

Exploring Black Bay

Entering Black Bay felt like stepping into another world. The peace and serenity of the surroundings were reminiscent of Algonquin Park, providing a much-needed escape from civilization. We paddled through a narrow channel into a wider one, eventually arriving at the site of the old, never-completed canal system. Le Vieux Canal, intended as a steamship route around Chats Falls, was abandoned after significant but costly efforts. We stopped for a quick picnic in the shade before continuing our journey. 

Exploring Le Vieux Canal

As we ventured further into the area, we found ourselves paddling through history itself. Le Vieux Canal, an ambitious project conceived in the 19th century, aimed to create a steamship route around Chats Falls to facilitate faster and more profitable travel from Ottawa to Pembroke. Before rail service and roads, the river was the lifeline for moving goods and people from the St. Lawrence Valley to the western reaches of Ontario. However, the picturesque waterfalls and rapids were significant obstacles, requiring steamships to dock and unload passengers and freight, which were then portaged to another ship waiting upriver.

The Union Forwarding Company first tackled this challenge in 1846 by constructing a horse-drawn railway around the first of these portages. This 5km railway, completed in 1847, was the first in the Ottawa Valley and one of the earliest in Canada. Passengers and freight were transported in open-air cars through swamps and mosquito-infested wilderness, creating a harrowing yet essential passage. The Ottawa Citizen even reported that Prince Arthur traveled this route in 1869, describing it as "at once very interesting and rather frightful."

Horse-Drawn Railway Cart

Recognizing the need for a more efficient solution, the company soon realized that a canal could offer a faster route. In 1853, a survey was conducted to cut through the Canadian Shield at Pontiac Village, and construction began in 1862 at the base of Chats Falls. The work was labor-intensive and slow, with workers hand-drilling holes into solid igneous rock for blasting, a process that consumed 15 to 20 drill bits per inch of depth. After two years and half a million dollars (about 4 million in today's dollars), the project was abandoned.

Proposed Steamship Canal System

The introduction of a steam-powered locomotive railway along the same route rendered the canal obsolete, and by 1879, the horse railway and canal were left to disappear into the woods. Today, the remnants of this project lie hidden, with piles of rubble and rocks bearing the hand-drilled holes that once represented the promise of a new era in transportation.

All that remains today is a concrete wall covering up what was once a grand canal plan. Paddling through these waters, you can’t help but feel connected to the past, to the sheer determination and hard work that went into this ambitious but ultimately uncompleted endeavour.

Around the Islands

After exploring the canal area, we paddled northwest (upstream) around Green Island and Central Island. The waters here, once part of the proposed canal system, are notably deep and dark, possibly explaining the name Black Bay. I can only assume that the depth is due to the amount of digging they had to do back in 1853 to construct the canal system. You can clearly see where the proposed route had been.

The occasional sight and sound of jet skis and motorboats reminded us that, despite the remote feel, a few cottages and homes along this part of the Ottawa River have access to these pristine waters.

We took a refreshing dip in a small sandbar near the mouth of Black Bay before heading back out to the Ottawa River. The return journey was marked by the river's current, which we navigated by pointing our kayaks upstream, allowing for better control against the flow.

Reflecting on the Adventure

Returning to Morris Island, we reflected on the incredible journey and the hard work of previous generations in the Ottawa Valley. This paddling adventure not only offered a challenging and scenic experience but also a deeper appreciation for the region's rich history.

For those looking to combine adventure, history, and natural beauty, a trip to Black Bay is a must. Whether you're a seasoned paddler or looking to test your skills, this hidden gem promises an unforgettable experience. Just make sure you have a fast and top performing kayak to make the trip. 

Post Paddle Dinner Options

After a day of paddling and exploring, there's nothing better than refueling with a delicious meal. Here's a few of our favourite places to eat and drink in Arnprior to satisfy your post-paddle cravings.

1. Negi's Family Bistro - A cozy spot known for its welcoming atmosphere offers an eclectic mix of Canadian pub fare & mouthwatering authentic Indian dishes. It's a great place to relax and share stories from your day on the water.

2. Lumbertown - If you're in the mood for something hearty and satisfying, Lumbetown offers a great menu with plenty of options, from juicy burgers to tasty tacos.

3. Krave - For those seeking something a bit more upscale, Krave delivers with its creative dishes and a refined dining experience. It's perfect for a post-adventure dinner with a touch of elegance.

4. Cold Bear Brewing Co. - If you’re looking to unwind with a cold one after your paddle, head over to Cold Bear Brewing Co. They offer a fantastic selection of locally brewed craft beers, making it the ideal spot to toast a successful day on the water.