The lifts have stopped spinning, the snow is melting, and another ski season is officially in the books. But before you shove your gear into the back of a closet and forget about it until November, take a breath... how you store your equipment over the summer can make or break next season. Warped bases, rusty edges, cracked boots, and mildewed outerwear are all avoidable. Here's everything you need to know.

Why Summer Storage Matters

Ski and snowboard gear is expensive. A quality setup — skis or board, bindings, boots, helmet, outerwear can easily run $1,500 to $3,000 or more. Proper off-season care protects that investment, extends the life of your equipment, and means you're ready to charge on opening day rather than scrambling for repairs.

The two biggest enemies during summer storage are heat and moisture. A hot garage or attic can warp ski bases, delaminate edges, and dry out boot liners. Humidity breeds mould and mildew in everything from boot liners to insulated jackets. Fortunately, both are easy to manage.

Skis & Snowboards

1. Get a Tune Before You Store Them

This feels counterintuitive to many skiers, but end-of-season is actually the best time to get a full tune. A fresh grind, edge work, and — most importantly — a storage wax will protect the base over the long off-season. Storage wax is applied thick and left unscraped, forming a protective layer that keeps the base from oxidizing and drying out. When fall arrives, you simply scrape it off and you're ready to go. Drop your skis off at OVAP and ask for a "storage tune", we'll get your gear ready for next season.

2. Clean the Bases and Edges

Before waxing, wipe down the bases with a clean cloth and a bit of base cleaner to remove dirt and old wax. Check your edges for rust spots — a quick pass with a gummy stone or rust eraser will take care of minor surface rust. If you see deep pitting or significant corrosion, a shop tune is the move.

3. Store Horizontally, Not Vertically

Skis should be stored flat or on a proper rack that supports them along their full length. Standing them tip-up in a corner for eight months can cause the tip or tail to gradually sag, especially in heat. Snowboards should also be stored flat, ideally in a bag or wrapped in a soft cloth to prevent scratches. Racks like this one are a great idea to mount on the wall. Or, if you're handy, try building your own. 

Though it is best to store your gear horizontally, skis can be stored standing upright, flat, or hanging. Just make sure there is no pressure on the camber or tips. Do not strap skis tightly together, as this can warp their shape over time.

4. Keep Bindings in Check

Release the binding tension to its lowest DIN setting before storing. Keeping bindings under constant spring tension over months of storage can fatigue the springs and affect their release values — a safety concern. If you're not sure how to do this, your local shop can help.

5. Choose the Right Location

Avoid garages, attics, or any space that gets very hot. A temperature-controlled closet, basement, or spare room is ideal. Keep gear out of direct sunlight, which degrades materials over time. If you must use a garage, a padded ski bag provides meaningful insulation from temperature swings.

Ski & Snowboard Boots

Boots arguably need the most attention at the end of the season, and they're the most commonly neglected.

1. Dry Them Out Completely

After your last day on the mountain, remove the liner from the shell and let both dry separately for 24–48 hours at room temperature. Never use a radiator, forced air heater, or direct heat source — this dries out and cracks the foam and plastic. A boot dryer set to low heat is fine for a few hours, but air drying is best for long-term storage.

2. Buckle Them Loosely

Store boots with buckles fastened loosely — just enough to hold the shell's shape without compressing it. Storing them completely unbuckled can cause the shell to splay open over time.

3. Use Boot Bags or Newspaper

Pack the inside of the boot with crumpled newspaper or a boot form to help retain shape and absorb any remaining moisture. Store them in boot bags if you have them, or in a breathable cloth sack. Avoid sealed plastic bags, which trap moisture.

4. Inspect the Liners

Look for compression spots, tears, or worn heel and toe areas. If your liners are showing significant wear after several seasons, summer is the perfect time to replace them before the season starts.

Outerwear: Jackets, Pants & Base Layers

1. Wash Everything Before Storing

Never store dirty gear. Sweat, sunscreen, oils, and grime break down fabrics and DWR (durable water repellent) coatings over time. Wash your shell jacket and pants according to the manufacturer's instructions — typically a gentle cycle with a technical outerwear wash like Nikwax or Granger's. Throw in a couple of tennis balls to help redistribute down if applicable.

2. Re-Treat the DWR

After washing, reapply a DWR treatment spray while the jacket is still damp, then tumble dry on low. This refreshes the water-beading performance you noticed was getting worse toward the end of the season.

3. Store Loosely — Never Compressed

Down jackets and pants should be stored uncompressed in a breathable bag or hanging in a closet. Keeping down stuffed into a stuff sack for months can permanently damage the loft of the fill. For synthetic insulation, the same principle applies.

4. Base Layers and Midlayers

Wash these thoroughly and store flat or rolled — not crammed into a drawer. Merino wool base layers especially benefit from being aired out and stored loosely.

Helmets, Goggles & Accessories

Helmet: Wipe down with a damp cloth, let dry, and store in its bag away from heat. Do not hang anything heavy from it or stack gear on top of it. Helmets should be replaced every 5–7 years, or after any significant impact — summer is a good time to assess.

Goggles: Remove the lens if possible and store separately. Clean the foam seal gently with a damp cloth — never rub the lens. Keep them in a hard case or padded bag, away from UV light, which degrades the lens coatings.

Gloves: Wash per the care label, air dry completely, and store stuffed with newspaper to hold shape. Check for worn seams and thin spots in the palm — much cheaper to replace over summer than scrambling on the first powder day.

Poles: Wipe down the shafts and check basket tips for cracks. Store upright or horizontally in a dry place.

A Quick Pre-Season Checklist for Next Fall

When you pull everything out in October or November, run through this list before you're standing in a lift line:

• Scrape the storage wax off your skis or board
• Check edges for any new rust from the storage period
• Inspect boot buckles and power straps for cracking
• Test binding release values at a shop
• Re-inflate any compressed liners with a few days of natural wear
• Charge helmet speakers or any electronics
• Confirm DWR is still performing on outerwear

The Bottom Line

A little effort in May saves a lot of frustration in December. Your gear works hard for you all season — a proper summer send-off means it'll be ready to work hard again the moment the snow flies. Get that storage tune, dry those boots, wash that jacket, and rest easy knowing next opening day is going to be a good one!